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burgemaster
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« on: March 18, 2006, 03:32:33 PM » |
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Hi, Think its time for me to dump my firmware from my DVD drive, could some1 pls give info on the best way to remove the ST chip? Im used to removing the 48TSOP 2sided chips with a solderPro ? but these have 4 sides  ?? Or even better would it be best to wait for a win32 Flasher program to surface? Cheers in advance
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uberfry
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« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2006, 05:01:50 PM » |
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use two of them i use ersa pyro for 4 sided ICs
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burgemaster
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« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2006, 06:08:13 PM » |
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im gonna have to wait for a win32 flasher cant get the IC off the board dont want to overheat it and lose my Key lol Is there any1 working on a flasher yet?
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robinsod
Global Moderator
Xbox Hacker
    
Posts: 646
Perl packed my shorts during global destruction
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« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2006, 06:16:35 PM » |
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You can get the key using sofware only, search the thread. Flasher should be easy to make using standard LG software, Ive been successfull making my own for the 8164B and the 3120 should be much the same. The 8164B flash tool on the Dangerous Brothers site lacks suport for the device(s) known to be fitted to that drive (39LF/VF020A or a Micronix device) BUT it does have support for 39SF020A and I will bet money that with a suitable header (HL-DT-STDVD-ROM GDR3120L) and correct FW in the flasher you could flash the 3120 TODAY. Noobs be careful - get this wrong and you will brick your 360! LG and TS flashers are very low priority for me now though & and anyway you've got nothing to flash on the drive 
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BiMP
Newbie

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« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2006, 05:38:43 AM » |
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You can get the key using sofware only, search the thread. Flasher should be easy to make using standard LG software, Ive been successfull making my own for the 8164B and the 3120 should be much the same. The 8164B flash tool on the Dangerous Brothers site lacks suport for the device(s) known to be fitted to that drive (39LF/VF020A or a Micronix device) BUT it does have support for 39SF020A and I will bet money that with a suitable header (HL-DT-STDVD-ROM GDR3120L) and correct FW in the flasher you could flash the 3120 TODAY. Noobs be careful - get this wrong and you will brick your 360! LG and TS flashers are very low priority for me now though & and anyway you've got nothing to flash on the drive  Some google searches couldn't find any software for making your own LG flasher (or changing the firmware in one for that matter). However using firmcrypt, I was able to find the firmware inside of the already compiled flasher, its just a matter of replacing that and the string as far as I know.
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MacDennis
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« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2006, 05:55:01 AM » |
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Some google searches couldn't find any software for making your own LG flasher (or changing the firmware in one for that matter). However using firmcrypt, I was able to find the firmware inside of the already compiled flasher, its just a matter of replacing that and the string as far as I know.
Not everything is on google.. Use the search and the forums on this board. Which drive you want to flash with a software flasher?
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Arakon
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« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2006, 06:50:52 AM » |
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Hi, Think its time for me to dump my firmware from my DVD drive, could some1 pls give info on the best way to remove the ST chip? Im used to removing the 48TSOP 2sided chips with a solderPro ? but these have 4 sides  ?? Or even better would it be best to wait for a win32 Flasher program to surface? Cheers in advance a possible, but quite risky way is using a hot air gun.. cover all but the chip in alu foil and then use the hot air gun at about 300°C to melt the solder on all sides at once, and quickly remove the chip.. however, you do risk taking off other components and killing the chip by heat.
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
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Zeb Crs
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« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2006, 02:34:43 PM » |
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When we removes theese packages we either use aluminium tape round or the kind of paper tape You would use for paint jobs. Then gently pull the ic while heating with a hot air gun . When the solder reaches around 160-170 degerees Celsius the solder will start to be liquid. The IC should NOT be pulled hard or it WILL rip of pads. If You got a little feeling in Your fingers You will feell the chip loosen and it will pullup easy. Be careful not to hold the hot air gun to close to the pcb or other components might become loose. Circulate the hot air gun slowly round the chip.
It is no shame to practice on something You do not need :-)
It is always harder to get the chip back in place again. We have a special solder tip for PLCC's which makes it easier. And of course the microscope to be able to check all the solderings.
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Zeb Crusaders Zeb of Team Avalaunch Hardware Hacker
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Pec
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« Reply #8 on: March 20, 2006, 02:39:13 PM » |
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Not only loosing other components, but damaging traces leading to the flash rom. I advise to use the software method to dump your rom, at least the drives key. Another way could be to solder wires to the flash rom to dump it - but you'll have to cut the vcc line (pin 32) and power the ic from an external power supply...
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burgemaster
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« Reply #9 on: March 21, 2006, 12:00:43 PM » |
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could i ask TS or whoevers rig that was in the video........ As it was a hitachi drive, did you remove the 32TSOP from the board and then rewire the pads to the external chip?? Or did you lift/earth/VCC leg 22 (CE - Chip enable) and then wire the new chip over the top of the old one leaving it soldered on the board?? Also, not that it matters but what is that IC in the video? its huge? Cheers 
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SeventhSon
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« Reply #10 on: March 21, 2006, 01:13:46 PM » |
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Also, not that it matters but what is that IC in the video? its huge?
Looks like a standard 32 pin DIL PROM to me. In a stack of DIL IC sockets (or maybe a ZIF socket) which is why it probably looks big.
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burgemaster
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« Reply #11 on: March 21, 2006, 06:27:52 PM » |
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yeah think ur right, would go straight into a willem that way, no adaptor......
Do you know if the ST chip is still on the baord and disabled or whether it was removed and then wired up??
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LordX
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« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2006, 06:29:05 PM » |
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Hi, Think its time for me to dump my firmware from my DVD drive, could some1 pls give info on the best way to remove the ST chip? Im used to removing the 48TSOP 2sided chips with a solderPro ? but these have 4 sides  ?? Or even better would it be best to wait for a win32 Flasher program to surface? Cheers in advance a possible, but quite risky way is using a hot air gun.. cover all but the chip in alu foil and then use the hot air gun at about 300°C to melt the solder on all sides at once, and quickly remove the chip.. however, you do risk taking off other components and killing the chip by heat. This is what I tryed to do today I have Toshiba Samsung TS-H943 this is damn hard , they cover the Flash chip with some silicon , easy to remove it from sides but inpossible under the chip this silicon holding the chip. I used air gun on 500°C !!! and this not help. better I will make Flash Backup 1st , and then try again. but I have problem to backup it  windows not detecting it at all ... and only "Dynebolic Linux" can detect it without any problem and I can use it like normal DVDROM for every CD/DVD/360DVD but dumping tools not working under Dynebolic dont know why ...
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Slack3er
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« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2006, 06:50:11 PM » |
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If I were you, I would wait until there a software solution for the Toshiba Samsung. The current dumping tools are for the LG only. Really interesting, that's the first I've heard of the Toshiba Samsung being detected by linux. 
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LordX
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« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2006, 07:29:55 PM » |
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If I were you, I would wait until there a software solution for the Toshiba Samsung. The current dumping tools are for the LG only. Really interesting, that's the first I've heard of the Toshiba Samsung being detected by linux.  yeah true , I tryed ALOT Linux versions  btw it show me the DVD Files when I use XBOX360 Game but it have 1 problem , when I insert other disk to drive I dont know how to refresh it , it show me dirs from 1st disk 
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Slack3er
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« Reply #15 on: March 22, 2006, 07:39:35 PM » |
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I'm not sure what window environments Dynebolic uses, ex. kde, gnome, basic unix shell. But you need to umount the dvd drive, before you can use another cd. That's probably why your seeing the first files. If its under the shell, as root type: umount /dev/?? replace ?? with device name. Could be cdrom, sda, not sure check dmesg. Or under kde/gnome, right click dvd rom icon, click umount. Would it be possible for you to get any of this? It could be helpful for other linux users.. If you can't or have problems, no problem, just say...  What sata controller chipset are you using? Can you get us a dmesg with the dvd drive connected? Or Do you know if libata is detecting the drive or what driver your using? Regards;
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LordX
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« Reply #16 on: March 22, 2006, 07:59:02 PM » |
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Or under kde/gnome, right click dvd rom icon, click umount.
I will try this soon . What sata controller chipset are you using?
ASUS P4P800 Motherboard , ATA Controller Name : 82801EB (ICH5) SATA Controller ( onboard ). Can you get us a dmesg with the dvd drive connected?
dmesg > boot.messages soon... Or Do you know if libata is detecting the drive or what driver your using?
no I dont know , but I hope dmesg can show us . also I can boot any bootable media from H943 , but after boot when it starting to load CDROM driver I get error ( only Dynebolic working ).
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tmm1
Newbie

Posts: 6
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« Reply #17 on: March 22, 2006, 08:14:37 PM » |
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Dyne:bolic is using the kernel 2.4.22 so perhaps that has something to do with it.
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LordX
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« Reply #18 on: March 23, 2006, 04:36:28 PM » |
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ok, flash chip is my hands now... was damn hard to take it out  ( Samsung-Toshiba DVDROM ) PCB alittle demaged so I will need to install PLCC socket with wires to install it back , going to dump the firmware tomorrow . PS. there is no way to uninstall it in "easy way" .... 
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BlueCop
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« Reply #19 on: March 24, 2006, 04:53:22 PM » |
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LordX: i also removed mine recently. I lifted quite a few pads unfortunately. the only ones i am having trouble repairing are the DQ0-DQ6. they were to be stuck with the epoxy and riped right off darkfly posted a picture of a labled board that helped me out alot. i wasn't sure if you were aware of it http://www.xboxhacker.net/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=33&topic=76.600i just can't seem to solder to those pins directly on the processor without shorting them. =( i hope i didn't damage the board beyond my ability to repair. now i need to search the forums for the location of the key in this flash. I'm still waiting on my willem programer from thailand it is taking forever to come in. =(
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